Fortuny's "Delphos" dresses were based on the pleated linen chitons worn by Greek maidens, as seen on Greek sculpture and vases.
Made of finely pleated silk, the gowns slip over the head with no opening but in the neck. The silk shirring cord allows for the garment to be made high or low, at will. The method used by Spanish artist and designer Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949) to pleat silk was patented in 1909. These dresses can be accessorised to the best effect with long Oriental earrings and neck chains of links or beads reaching, at least one of them, half way to the knees.”
The "Delphos" was easy to pack and light to carry and it was favoured by artistic, wealthy women in Europe and the United States.